In 1995 two of UK trad climbing's brightest stars left Llanberis for Pakistan's Trango Tower. Paul Pritchard and Adam Wainwright honed their skills and boldness on the sea cliffs of North Wales. Their lives led them onto bigger things. In part one of this two-parter we trace a line through their friendship, what climbing was like in the early 1990s and their motivations to go to Pakistan.
I set off to introduce the Pritchard wainwright podcast but accidentally talk crap for 50 minute. Apologies all round. Big love x
Pembroke is surely the UK's favourite climbing holiday destination. This year Belgian Siebe Vanhee came to visit. Between visits to the pub and nights' camping in the field, he amassed a mindblowing ticklist of onsights and flashes of many of the country's best trad routes. Hear all about that, as well as being beaten by the Dawn Wall and future plans at 7000m.
Thanks to this week's sponsors, Summit Financial Services
The second part of the John Dunne chat talking Parthian Shot and life after injury.
Here’s a true heavyweight of the 80s and 90s sport and trad world. John Dunne punched out top level sport routes at Malham and a series of trad routes that are still the country’s finest ticks. He ruffled feathers along the way. Let’s hear his crack.
Thanks to this week's sponsors:
Summit Financial Services
The BMC
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Lincoln Knowles, a 21-year-old US-based TikTokker, YouTuber, FreeSoloist and RageBaiter, tells us all about his funny videos where he annoys the shit out of people. Let’s hear his crack.
El Cap is still the crucible of hard aid climbing, where devotees come to test themselves and learn. Oliver Trippett is one such disciple and he tells us of this vertical world.
Artist, developer, shaper, traveller and all round baller, Jason Kehl, AKA Cryptochild, tells us about his quirks and works and his love of developing beautiful boulder problems in the American desert.
Good friend of the show Milena Mühlen reads a self-penned story, Climbing and Womanhood, telling of a recent experience.
My old mucker Andy chatting North Wales in 90s, soloing, freedom, grit, history and rambling. So warm.
A journey through cancer for committed climber, Carolyn Young. One of the many stories from Marsha Belaeva's new book, We Are Subculture.
Endless shit talking. Young Matt makes me listen to his opinions on all aspects of modern climbing. Funniest ever swear to god!
Ricky Bell swept his paintbrush of adventure over Irish trad climbing to create so many beautiful leads of the highest quality in the Mournes, Burren and Fair Head. Outstanding! He documented his and his friends’ shenanigans in a bunch of fun and soulful films, full of joy and vibe. He’s a Celtic soul brother. Hear his crack.
Chris is the defininig voice and spirit of Jam Crack. He's back again with another reading, this time his own story, Patience. It's all about trying o be a climber and a person in the world. Beautiful.
Part 2 of the amazing Steph Davis interview. Part 1 is episode 174
This star of US adventure climbing shone brightly in the early 2000s with big free ascents on El Cap at a time when few ventured there without aid. Big solos, desert sandstone crack testpieces, expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Baffin and Paragonia, amongst others, made her one of the most experienced adventureclimbers of her day. Later years saw the adventures continue with the embracing of base jumping and wingsuit flying.
Beyond all these has lain a thoughtful and considered approach, always ready to self check and ask twice. Skills that surely came to the fore during tough times around loss of sponsorship and latterly, personal tragedy.
Steph lays it all out with a thousand laughs along the way. Such fun, so honest. Check this, part one of this two-part interview.
Support in this episode from Summit Financial Services. Summit Financial Services have been providing Life Insurance, Income Protection and Critical Illness Cover for climbers for over 25 years. Speak to a climbing and mountaineering specialist today on 0345 565 0935 or click here for quote https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/
Niall Grimes reads some of his own stories about Ireland's County Donegal in celebration of St Patrick's Day. Plus Mary Shiels' poetry and Brian's medley. Slainte!
With well over two millions subscibers to his YouTube channel, Magnus Midtbø is one of the most famous climbers in the world. But what lies behind this Norwegian tough guy. Magnus joined Jam Crack in a live event at the KMF to find out.
Support from Summit Financial Services. Summit Financial Services have been providing Life Insurance, Income Protection and Critical Illness Cover for climbers for over 25 years. Speak to a climbing and mountaineering specialist today on 0345 565 0935 or click here for quote https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/
Lifer, and then some! Lakes legend Rob Matheson was at the forefront of Lake District standards since the 1970s, rarely taking his foot off the gas of hard trad climbing. Skill, boldness and passion took him up the area’s classics. His fire burns just as bright today as he aims himself towards one of the UK’s most terrifying E7s. He's funny, kind and inspiring. Hear his crack!
London-based professional climbing coach Xian Goh has spent years observing climbers climb, paying attention to how they move and how they think. She has now converted her knowledge and experience into a book on climbing movementcalled Smooth. Let's listen up!
He's had his dinner, he's met the Mexicans, and now he's back. German world shaker Alex Huber joins the Jam for the third part of his conversations. Amazing.
Support from Summit Financial Services. Summit Financial Services have been providing Life Insurance, Income Protection and Critical Illness Cover for climbers for over 25 years. Speak to a climbing and mountaineering specialist today on 0345 565 0935 or click here for quote https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/
Second part of the Julian Lines interview. Part one is previous episode.
Pure soul. Julian is one of the UK’s most extraordinary climbers, a stoic toejammer, a ramrod individualist, an aesthetic ascetic. Film star, prize-winning author, hermit. Get in!
Support (thank you) from Summit Financial Services. Summit Financial Services have been providing Life Insurance, Income Protection and Critical Illness Cover for climbers for over 25 years.
Speak to a climbing and mountaineering specialist today on 0345 565 0937 or click here for quote https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/
A chilled mix for a chilled day. Tracks: Be/Common, We Came Far/Paqua, Dominos/Donald Byrd, Black Gold of the Sunn/Minnie Ripperton/4Hero, Sometimes I'm Wrong/Curtis Mayfield/Luxxury, Talking Blue/Bob Marley, Heaven/Rolling Stones, Hungry for your Love/Van Morrison, Wish I Didn't Miss You/Angie Stone, Barry/T Markarkis, Swimming Places/Julian Jabre, Lazer Worshippers, Take me Higher/Fertile Griound, Only You/Nookie, Heartbreaker/Crazy P, Early in the Morning/Nilsson.
Enjoyyyy x
Competition beast Zoë Peetermans is current British Bouldering champ and lead vice champ. She climbs like she means it and is magic to watch and listen to. Check out her crack.